How to Waterproof Walking Boots: A Step-by-Step UK Guide

To waterproof walking boots, clean off all the dirt, apply the right proofer for the material (wax or conditioner for smooth leather, a spray for fabric, suede and nubuck), then leave them to dry slowly at room temperature. Most regular walkers need to do this once or twice a season, or whenever water stops beading on the surface. The whole job takes about 20 minutes of effort plus drying time, and costs less than a round of coffees.

With UK weather doing what it does between October and March, a tired pair of boots is the quickest route to wet socks and a miserable walk. Below is the routine, what to use on which material, and the mistakes that quietly ruin good boots.

In this article

How do I know my boots need reproofing?

Do the water test. Splash a little water on the upper. If it beads and rolls off, the finish is working. If it soaks in and the leather or fabric darkens, it is time to reproof. Other giveaways are stiff, dry-looking leather, small cracks around the flex points, and boots that feel damp inside after a wet walk even though the membrane is intact.

Mountain Warehouse's boot reproofing guide makes a useful point: reproof when boots stop repelling water, but only condition leather when it actually feels dry or cracked, because walking boots need to stay supportive. If boots still let moisture in straight after a proper reproof, they have probably reached the end of their life.

How do I waterproof walking boots step by step?

  1. Knock off the loose dirt. Take the laces out and use a soft brush to remove dried mud, especially around the welt and tongue.
  2. Clean properly. Dirt left to sit breaks down waterproofing over time, and proofer will not bond well to a muddy surface. Spray on a footwear cleaner, wipe with a damp cloth and leave to dry naturally.
  3. Choose the right proofer for the material (see the table below).
  4. Apply thin coats. Work wax into the seams and joints first, where water gets in. Two or three thin coats beat one heavy one.
  5. Wipe off the excess with a clean cloth so nothing sticky is left on the surface.
  6. Dry slowly. Stand the boots somewhere at room temperature and let them dry fully before you wear them.
Grangers Footwear + Gear Cleaner 275ml spray bottle
Step 1: Clean
Grangers Footwear + Gear Cleaner 275ml

Lifts dirt and odours on leather, suede, nubuck, fabric and GORE-TEX or eVent uppers without stripping existing waterproofing.

Which waterproofer suits which boot?

The right product depends on what your boots are made from. Using the wrong one is the most common way to damage a good pair.

Boot material Best treatment HikeWare option
Full-grain leather, regular top-up Soft, quick-apply wax Grangers Waterproofing Wax
Full leather boots that take a beating Firm, traditional beeswax Grangers G-Wax
Stiff or tired leather Cream conditioner Grangers Leather Conditioner
Fabric, suede, nubuck, GORE-TEX or eVent Spray-on waterproofer Grangers Footwear Repel Plus
Grangers Footwear Repel Plus 275ml spray-on waterproofer bottle
Fabric, suede and nubuck
Grangers Footwear Repel Plus 275ml

Spray-on waterproofer that is safe on GORE-TEX and eVent, keeps water out without smothering breathability. PFC-free.

Wax or conditioner for leather boots?

Both nourish leather and add water-repellency. The Waterproofing Wax is the softer, quicker formula that buffs up to a shine, so it suits a regular top-up. G-Wax is the firmer, more traditional beeswax: it takes a bit more effort to work in and is built for boots that really get used. If the leather is just feeling stiff, the cream conditioner is the gentler option. Take the laces out first, it makes the job easier.

Grangers Waterproofing Wax 100ml tin for leather boots
Full-grain leather
Grangers Waterproofing Wax 100ml

Beeswax-based and easy to apply. Nourishes drying leather while adding durable water-repellency.

Grangers G-Wax 80g tin of traditional beeswax boot wax
Hard-working leather boots
Grangers G-Wax 80g

Traditional beeswax that stops leather drying and cracking while still letting it breathe.

What mistakes should I avoid?

  • Drying boots on a radiator or by a fire. Direct heat can crack leather and damage fabric. Let them air dry naturally, and stuff them with newspaper if they are soaked through.
  • Using wax on suede or nubuck. It can ruin the texture and stain. Use a spray instead.
  • Proofing over mud. The proofer sits on top of the dirt instead of the boot, so clean first.
  • One thick coat. It clogs the pores of the leather. Thin coats, with drying time between, work better.
  • Waiting until the boots leak. Reproof when water stops beading, not after your socks are wet.

If you are heading out on a multi-day trip such as a Duke of Edinburgh expedition, do the whole routine at least a week beforehand so the boots are fully dry and you have time to test them.

Frequently asked questions

How often should I waterproof my walking boots?

Whenever water stops beading on the surface. For regular walkers that is typically once or twice a season, and more often if you hike through wet ground most weekends.

Can I waterproof GORE-TEX boots?

Yes. The membrane keeps water out from the inside, but the outer fabric can still soak up water and stop the boot breathing. A spray that is safe on GORE-TEX and eVent, like Repel Plus, restores the repellent finish on the outside.

Should I waterproof boots when they are wet or dry?

Follow the product instructions. Repel Plus goes on clean, slightly damp boots, while waxes go onto clean, dry boots. Either way, finish by letting them dry fully before you wear them.

Does reproofing make boots less breathable?

Used sparingly, no. Thin coats of wax and a breathable spray keep the leather or fabric able to breathe. Heavy, sealed layers are what cause sweaty feet.

How do I clean walking boots without damaging them?

Brush off dry mud, then use a dedicated footwear cleaner and a damp cloth. Avoid washing machines and harsh detergents, and dry naturally away from direct heat.

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